By the Numbers

Diameter 40 mm

Thickness 11 mm

Lug to lug 49.5 mm

Movement DUW 5201

Limited to 100 numbered pieces

The Background

This is the second limited edition panda dial Weldzeit collaboration between Nomos and Fratello. The first panda dial had only 25 pieces which quickly sold out. This blue version came in 100 pieces. Besides the special dial, this Nomos is notable for the the DUW 5201 caliber. It is not exactly a “world timer” in the conventional sense since the various time zones are not displayed simultaneously. Rather, it acts as a “flyer GMT” with a jumping local time hand while simultaneously displays a city corresponding to the time zone.

The Fratello Dial

New features of the dial are the dark metallic blue of the outer ring and the subseconds which create the panda look. The rest of the dial is in cream. There are orange touches, with a carrot on the outer dial at 3 and an orange subseconds hand. There is also a windmill on the inner disc at 3, which replaces the home icon and is unique to this edition.

The Weldzeit dial is a good example of form following function and features an innovative design that displays complex information in a simple and clean format. 

The Local Time

The dial itself is constructed in layers with an inner stationary disc that incorporates rounded protrusions for the subseconds at 6 and the home marker at 3. The hour and minute hands sit above the central disc, so they are closest to the eye which emphasizes the local time that they display. At a glance, this is the first thing you notice when you look at the dial.

The running seconds subdial is emphasized not only by the protrusion on the central disc which keeps it elevated above the city and 24 hour disc functions, but also by the contrasting disc color with circular finish and the bright orange hand.

The Home Time

The home time is displayed on a recessed 24 hour disc which subordinates it to the local time. However, it is quite emphasized by a number of design elements surrounding it. The rounded protrusion on the inner disc at 3 helps to cover up most of the 24 hour disc so that about half of the disc’s hour track is exposed. This prevents the dial from being overly busy and centers the emphasis on the home time. The home marker at the center of the inner disc at 3 and the color contrasted carrot on the outer ring across from it both point to the home time. The outer ring and the inner disc are at the same, outermost level so it really draws in your eye to this important function.

The Current Location

The current time zone is located on the city disc, which is displayed as a recessed ring surrounding the inner disc. The display looks like a world time function, but the watch has the GMT disc on the side at 3 rather than in the center like a true world timer. Additionally, the protrusions on the inner disc at 3 and 6 cover up some of the cities so they are not displayed simultaneously. Again, those protrusions emphasize the home time and running subseconds and world time zones cannot be displayed simultaneously anyway.

The Case

The Zurich case is layered as well with separate pieces for the bezel, mid-case, and the caseback. It is high polish throughout. The lugs are welded and protrude above the mid case. Typical for Nomos, the lugs are rather long which gives it a 49.5 mm lug to lug length so it wears large. The lugs also are wider at the case than they are at the lug hole area, so they point inwards. This is not very convenient for aftermarket bracelets because a fitted end link tends to spin around. The 20 mm lug width, however, allows for a variety of aftermarket straps. 

The push button for the jump hour is flush at 8. The crown tube protrudes slightly and is capped by a logo crown at 3. By sitting away from the case slightly it is easy to wind. The time zone adjustment button is at 2 and provides a satisfying click, like pushing a column wheel chronograph.

The strap is a soft and comfortable Nomos branded sailcloth strap with a double-sided buckle, giving it a bit of a sporty look. There are surprisingly few holes so I had to punch a couple of extra ones for my 6.7 inch wrist.

The Movement

Nomo’s automatic in-house caliber DUW 5201 is remarkably thin at 5.7 mm and is notable for the unique functions described above. It has 26 jewels, beats at 21,600, and has a modest power reserve of 42 hours. It is nicely decorated with Glashutte stripes (as far as I can tell, basically the same as Geneva strips), snailing, and blued screws. This was the first automatic caliber built with the Nomos swing system, which is an in-house escapement. Honestly, you are getting a hell of a lot in terms of research and development, manufacturing prowess, and decoration with this movement, especially considering the price point. Anecdotally, this is one of the most accurate watches that I have worn, running about +1 seconds per day.

Conclusion

Overall I love this watch. I think the standard models are a bit too reserved in terms of their dial color and design but the blue panda really pops on the wrist. Like other Nomos designs, the lugs tend to be a little long, and the inward angle makes fitting an aftermarket bracelet a bit awkward. The thinness of the case and the downward turn of the lugs keeps it from wearing too large. In addition to the OEM sailcloth strap, it works well with an Erika’s Originals strap when pulls it down and close to the wrist. I am a fan of the standard Nomos bracelet which I ordered separately. Check my Instagram to see how it looks when it arrives.